Tips & Tricks For Belly Dancers:
Costuming, Make-Up, Hair

by Shira & Others

Table Of Contents

New Costume

Making & Buying Costumes

Making Belts. When making a belt, don't sew it together on either side--instead, put closures on both sides. If you later gain or lose weight, you can then adjust the size evenly on both sides. Even if you're not prone to weight changes, do this anyway--it will make it easier to sell your belt someday because the prospective buyer will find it easier to adjust the belt to a size that fits her. Safeguard Your Valuables. Are your valuables in a safe place while you dance? Here's one way to make sure: At the time you make a new skirt, veil, or pantaloons, use a scrap of the leftover fabric to make a small drawstring pouch. When dancing, you can wear this pouch at your hip, and tuck valuables such as credit cards, cash, watch, and keys inside. Secure it to either the inside or the outside of your costume using either safety pins, the ties, or a pair of large snaps. As long as the contents aren't too bulky, you can probably hide most of it under your belt so it won't flop around while you dance. Belts And Pins. Hand-sew strong bias tape across the inside back of the belt to use when pinning skirts and pantaloons to your belt. This will help you avoid making pin holes in the belts, and it's easier to put pins through than the full thickness of the belt. Stitch the bias tape down along the bottom edge, leaving the top edge open. This way you can reach inside your costume in the back with the diaper pin, and secure everything nicely. (Contributed by Kahina El Nar from Sacramento, California.) Buying Costumes. If you purchase a costume directly from the person who made it, try to also purchase a bit of extra matching fabric, trim, beads, and paillettes. That way, you'll have the supplies needed in the future to do repairs, make matching accessories, or adjust the size of the costume if needed. Bra Straps. When making a dance bra, modify the straps--if you have the standard bra style of one strap over each shoulder, you'll risk having the straps fall down while you're dancing--especially if you're doing shoulder rolls or snake arms. Bra Straps. If you're a "C" cup or bigger, do not wear a bra with a halter-style strap! It will bind painfully across the back of your neck, putting pressure on your vertebrae, and can contribute to long-term neck or back pain.

Bra Straps. Designs that are safe for your body, look good, and don't fall down while you're dancing include criss-crossing the straps across the back (as shown in the photo to the right), or putting a "T" bar across the upper shoulder blades to join the straps on either side. A bonus: these strap styles make your dance bra look less like lingerie and more like a costume component. More About Criss-Cross. The criss-cross design is great because it promotes cleavage by bringing the breasts closer together, and if you gain or lose weight you can change the position of the straps to adapt. It will also make it easier for you to resell the bra in the future to someone else who may be a slightly different size than you. The bra shown in the photo to the right was custom-made for me in Egypt before I managed a 50-pound weight loss. By moving the position of the straps and adding some padding in front, I altered it enough to continue wearing it.

Velcro. Avoid velcro--there's too much risk of another costume item made of soft fabric (such as your veil) catching on the velcro while you dance and possibly tearing. (This is Shira's opinion, but read on for Sulisha's rebuttal!) Velcro. Velcro can be a good closure for belts. There has to be at least 1 piece along the top and one piece along the bottom edges of the belt, about 3"-4" long. Add an additional piece in the middle if your belt is heavy (this applies to beaded costumes only). The advantage is that you can put the belt on quickly, no hunting for hooks and trying to "hit" the clasp exactly to fasten the belt. Hook & clasps are sometimes difficult to find in all the shiney beadwork. Also, if you gain or lose a little weight, the velcro can adjust for that. Two tips: When sewing on the velcro, make sure the bottom velcro pieces align as closely as possible on the ends with the top velcro pieces. This prevents the top part, or overlapping part of the costume from "flapping in the breeze" so to speak, and catching on something. To prevent snags, sew the fuzzy part of the velcro on the bottom or underlying side of the belt, and the plastic hooking part on the side that overlaps. Silk fabrics are friendly with velcro, as are chiffons. Lurex materials (looser woven with metallic threads running through them are the culprits. (Contributed by Sulisha Kanouni from Salt Lake City.)

Elegant Gloves. Net gloves in the same color as your costume add an elegant finishing touch, as modeled by Paola here in this photograph. They can be purchased in Cairo. But the problem arises when you want those gloves in a particular colour, such as a special shade of green. Just buy white gloves--they are made out of cotton, so they are very easy to dye in the colour you prefer. Add the dye powder little by little in warm water, and try the colouring first on a white cotton cloth, to check if that is the right shade of colour you wish. When it is the color you want, you can dip quickly your net gloves into the water. The pearls on them will not be damaged or coloured, so gold stays gold, silver stays silver. Rinse the gloves in cold water, and the trick is done. (Contributed by Paola in the Netherlands.)

Beware of Dyes! Be careful about using Rit Dye (the kind widely sold in craft stores) for costuming pieces that may come in contact with your skin. It contains chemicals that may cause liver cancer if skin is exposed to it frequently. The moisture of perspiration causes some of it to be absorbed into the skin. However, if wearing something else between the dyed piece and the skin, or if only wearing the dyed piece on rare occasions, there should be no problem. (Contributed by Lisa, a college student majoring in costuming.) Take Care With Dyes! When dyeing an item, take appropriate safety precautions such as rubber gloves and a dust mask to protect the skin against the chemicals in the dye. Powdered dye is more risky to work with than liquid. Avoid having open beverages or food in the room when dyeing, to avoid particles of dye contaminating the food or drink. (Contributed by Lisa, a college student majoring in costuming.) Type of Dye Matters. Dyes for cotton are more risky than dyes for silk. But precautions should be taken when working with both. (Contributed by Lisa, a college student majoring in costuming.) It's A Snap! Sew big snaps on the center front, back and sides of your pants or skirt, and the corresponding halves on the inside of your belt. Snap up when you get dressed, and you'll have no more frantic safety-pinning backstage at the last minute! (Contributed by Dina, The Costume Goddess. For more costume advice from her, see her column elsewhere on this web site, Ask The Costume Goddess.) A Little Extra. Need padding in your bra? Try the gel-filled pads that look, feel, and move like real flesh. They're pricey, but when you put them in your bra they give you instant bust enlargement, and they look like the real thing. They're sold in upscale lingerie catalogs, the lingerie sections of some department stores, and through ads in the backs of women's magazines. (Contributed by glitrgerl@aol.com.) Return To Table Of Contents

The Panty Question

As the photo of me to the right shows, you need to give thought to what you wear under your skirt. The costume that looks perfectly innocent when you're standing still will fly away from your body when you spin. If you happen to be dancing on a raised stage, or if the audience happens to be sitting on cushions down near the floor, your panties will almost certainly be seen. So make sure that what you wear is tasteful and appropriate. Some people deal with this issue by wearing harem pants. That is the best solution if you're dancing in a family-oriented setting such as a community festival where small children are likely to be present.

Under Where? What to wear under your skirts? Panties in a color that matches your costume are best. If you are wearing more than one skirt, match the underskirt that is closest to the body. Best of all would be panties made of the same fabric as your underskirt--for a pattern, check the section of the pattern company's catalog that features cheerleading uniforms. If the pattern comes all the way up to the waist, cut it off at hip level. Another excellent option: bikini underwear in a color that matches your underskirt--in particular, the "string bikini" design from Jockey For Her, which is 100% cotton works very well. If you can't find it in the color you need, then buy white and dye it. Bicycle Shorts. If you think full-length pantaloons are too hot, but you want the covered look, consider wearing bicycle shorts under your skirt. They come just above knee length, and they'll ensure that your performance remains tasteful. To ensure they don't call too much attention to themselves, pick a color that blends with the color of your skirt. Things To Avoid. Don't wear plain white panties, a black thong (makes the audience think you're wearing nothing at all under your skirt), panties in a see-through fabric such as lace, or panties made of fabric that is an obvious print (unless they match the print of your costume). Dance Trunks. The best underwear to buy are actual dance trunks. They are sturdy, and the white ones can be dyed to match any color. The best thing about them is they can be rolled down (twice to be exact) from the waist to the hips, which creates a very sturdy band to pin your skirt to and it is a good idea to pin your skirt to the underwear. Why? 1) To keep the skirt from pulling down in case it's stepped on or if it gets caught; and 2) When you receive tips, the tips go into the underwear and not between the skirt and underwear to end up on the floor and possibly lost. (Contributed by Sulisha Kanouni from Salt Lake City.) If Your Costume Is White. Purchase beige or brown underwear to match your skin color to wear under a white dress because white underwear shows through. If you wear a beige bra under a sheer white top, the bra is less visible than a white one. However, if the skirt is opaque and skimpy enough for the underwear to show sometimes, white may be preferable because beige may make it seem as though you are wearing nothing at all. (Contributed by Sulisha Kanouni from Salt Lake City.) Spare Pair. Keep a spare pair of underwear (beige or black) in your performance bag ALWAYS! One time I forgot my underwear for a performance and ended up having to cut the legs out of my panyhose to serve as underwear. One experience like that will teach you! (Contributed by Sulisha Kanouni from Salt Lake City.) Return To Table Of Contents

Costume Care

Putting It Away. When you get home from a performance, examine your costume for any repairs that may be needed--loose closures that need to be anchored, strands of beads that came loose and sprayed beads all over the stage, tiny rips caused when two costume pieces caught on each other, zill elastics that need replacing, etc. Perform those repairs BEFORE you put your costume away, so you won't have to worry about it the next time you're in a hurry to run out the door to a gig. Prepare To Repair. Keep empty film canisters or small plastic zip-lock baggies. Use them to store small quantities of beads, pailettes, coins, etc. Next time you're on the road or at a gig, take containers of the stuff that goes with your outfit. Include a mini sewing kit, and if you damage your costume, you have stuff on hand to fix it without lugging a full sewing kit and a big box full of baubles. (Contributed by Amy Walker.) While Transporting In Your Dance Bag. Closeable plastic bags of all sizes are a godsend. Use them to stash delicate fabrics that snag, dirty street shoes, jewelry, underwear, cosmetics, Q-tips, costume pieces, anything that could spill or leak. (Contributed by Amy Walker.) Return To Table Of Contents

Footwear

Why Not Barefoot? Dancing barefoot is dangerous--if coins or beads come loose from your costume (or that of the dancer who was on stage before you), you could step on them and cut your foot. Anyone who has ever had to go to the emergency room to get a bugle bead dug out of her big toe can tell you that shoes are a great idea! If you're dancing in a restaurant, it's always possible that someone broke some glass on the dance floor in the past, and it wasn't fully swept up. Another risk of dancing barefoot is picking up germs or fungus such as athlete's foot left behind on the dance floor by someone else who danced there barefoot before you. High Heels. If you prefer to perform in high heels, consider ballroom dance shoes, which come in gold, silver, and black. Normal everyday high heels are sometimes not very sturdy, and may break a heel under the stresses of dancing. Because ballroom dance shoes are designed especially for dance, they are less likely to give way under your fancy footwork. More on High Heels. High heels change your posture and your center of balance. If you're planning to perform in high heels, then you should attend all your classes and rehearsals wearing the exact heels you intend to use for performing. Otherwise, the surprise of feeling your entire sense of balance change could weaken your show. Classtime Footwear. Shoes that are suitable for classroom wear, but are not quite as ideal for belly dance performances, include ballet slippers, Capezio's lyrical shoes, and Scottish ghillies. If you want to wear ballet slippers to perform, consider decorating them with glitter, beads, or sequins. Stay Well Groomed. When performing for anyone--even family or friends--in close spaces, take the time beforehand to give yourself a pedicure. When dancing close to your audience, the condition of your feet and toenails is noticeable. It isn't necessary to have colored polish on the nails, but they should be kept neat, trimmed and of course as clean as possible. If you can afford it, periodically get a professional pedicure. Many places include wonderful foot and leg massages along with them. Once your nails and cuticles are initially cleaned up it's easy to maintain the pedicure at home. (Contributed by Christine Krebs-Bonder.)

Sandals. Hermes sandals are great for dance footwear. Companies who make them include Leo, Capezio and Danshuz. Stores that specialize in dance supplies usually either stock them or can special-order them for you. They normally come only in tan, which looks great for a barefoot look. Or, you might consider spray-painting them in a color to match your costume. Hermes sandals are usually listed under the "Modern dance footwear" category on web catalogs. How To Special-Order Sandals. If you special-order, ask the salesperson whether they can send in a tracing of your foot to get the right size. Hermes sandals often run larger than other shoes in the same size. For example, I normally wear a size 9 1/2 shoe, but in Hermes sandals I can wear size 8 1/2. Laces. If you wish, you can replace the fake leather lacing with either metallic cord or satin rattail cord, which is available in most fabric stores. Return To Table Of Contents

Photo by William M. Smith.

Your Hair

Other Ideas

Dancing Outdoors. When dancing outdoors, it's a good idea to wear pantaloons under your skirts. The slightest wind will catch on your skirts and expose whatever is underneath. Make-Up. Apply body glitter to cheeks, shoulders and tummy, or on your upper body, face, and shoulders to draw attention away from problem areas. (Contributed by Amber Taylor of southern California.) Make-Up. Apply blush to the whole eyelid before applying eyeshadow. This aids in bringing out the shape of your eye and makes the colors used appear more brilliant. (Contributed by Amber Taylor of southern California.) Pins. You'll probably need to use pins to hold your belt, skirt top, and pantaloons together to keep the pieces from slipping around. Diaper pins work very well for this. Avoid Distractions. Make sure the cleavage exposed by your costume isn't too revealing. Make sure your skirt isn't too long and your shoelaces (if you're wearing shoes) are securely tied. In other words, eye your costume critically before you wear it in public to make sure there's nothing about it that will draw audience attention away from your beautiful dancing. If they're busy wondering whether you will trip and fall, or whether you'll pop unexpectedly out of your bra, then instead of admiring your artistic dance they'll be focusing with fascinated horror on the thing they expect to go wrong. I had one friend tell me she remembered a double veil performance I did in a Christmas show while wearing a Santa Claus hat--she was so obsessed with wondering whether the hat would come loose and fly away while I was spinning that she never really saw the dance I was doing. She meant it as a compliment--that she was impressed that I did a difficult dance while wearing a Santa hat, but in retrospect I think wearing the hat was a bad costume decision because it drew the focus completely away from my dance and turned it into a novelty act! When Dancing With Fire. If you are dancing near a campfire, or using a candle or other open flame as a prop, do not wear loose-fitting clothing. You wouldn't want to risk having your beautiful costume catch on fire, and be ruined, would you? And you certainly wouldn't want to risk injuring yourself! Avoid draping yourself with veils and scarves. If you wear sleeves, choose ones that fit tightly below the elbow--either use long cuffs, or make the sleeves tight-fitting all the way. Narrowly-cut skirts or straight skirts are safer than full circle skirts. But if you feel a circle skirt is the most appropriate costume for your overall show, then before you dance near the open flame tuck it like this: reach down with your left hand, and pick up the end of the skirt on your left side. Cross it across your front, and tuck the end in at your right hip. Repeat on the other side. (Contributed by David Steele.) Transporting It All. Carry outfits on a hanger and put shoes, accessories, etc. in a plastic bag that hangs around the hook of the hanger -- sometimes an easier option than carrying clothes on a hanger plus a bag. (Contributed by Amy Walker.) Puffy Sleeves. I am not a sewing kind of person, but I did manage to make a pair of chiffon harempants one day. I never wore them after that, until winter came and my arms were cold (I tried to make sleeves, but somehow it didn't look the way it was meant to look.) So, I put my arms in the "sleeves" of my harempants, and the elastic of the waist up to my shoulders and behind my back. It looked great, nice big sleeves, good fit, 'no worries'. I can now tuck my veil in without wondering when it will fall out while dancing, and untuck it when it is time to, because of the elastic band. Maybe this is an oldie, I don't know, but my class is using this tip. They love it. It's amazing what kind of ideas you get, when you're a non talented sewing person, but still like to make your own costumes. (Contributed by Nifty Stitches in Australia.) Return To Table Of Contents

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Acknowledgements

I'd like to thank Melissa Amira of Austin, Texas for contributing several tips. You can e-mail her at kyriaki@mail.utexas.com. I'd like to thank David A. Steele from Denver, Colorado for contributing a tip. He is known as Robert of the Mountains in the SCA. You can e-mail him at david.a.steele@lmco.com. I'm grateful to Sulisha Kanouni for contributing several tips based on her own experience. Sulisha lives in Salt Lake City, Utah and has been dancing 34 years, 25 of those years in Middle East dancing. In these years she has performed throughout the United States and Canada, mainly in the Middle East or Greek nightclubs dancing with live bands. You can e-mail Sulisha at sulisha@MCI2000.com. Kahina El Nar from Sacramento, California was kind enough to contribute her tip about bias tape on belts. You can e-mail her at tridea@worldnet.att.net. Amy Walker from the Southern U.S. offered some great ideas about how to stay well organized. You can e-mail her at wxgal@yahoo.com. Dafne Canales from Calgary, Alberta in Canada shared her experience with wigs and hairpieces in the form of several very helpful tips. You can e-mail her at canalesd@cadvision.com. Christine Krebs-Bonder, who doesn't perform herself, but has been in the audience a lot watching other people perform, contributed the tip about the importance of pedicures. You can e-mail her at 2maples@dnaco.net. Paola from the Netherlands contributed the tip about dyeing net gloves to the color of your choice. You can e-mail her at paolak@teleacnot.nl. "Nifty Stitches" contributed the tip about wearing pantaloons as sleeves. You can write to her at gcsa@tpgi.com.au. Amber Taylor from southern California contributed a couple of make-up tips. You can write to her at munefaerie@email.com. Do you have tips you'd like to share? E-mail them to me. Please include your name, city, and state/country so I can include you in these acknowledgements!

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