Making Belly Dance Costumes:
Turkish Edging

by Shira

The two belly dance costumes that I bought in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey in July 2000 both had an edging made of cup sequins and rocaille beads along the edges of the skirt and veil. Here are instructions on how you can put this quick-and-easy trim on your own costumes.

This edging is so easy that even someone who is new to sewing can quickly master it!

In the photo to the right, I'm wearing one of the skirts I bought in Turkey, which has the edging outlining each panel.

I paid $450 U.S. for the complete set of bra, belt, pair of wristbands, neckpiece, headband, skirt, and veil. The skirt and veil were both made of double georgette fabric, and edged with this trim.

Practicing in the costume, I found the skirt to be just a little too skimpy, so I made myself a pair of georgette pantaloons with slits up the front center of each leg. I used this edging along those slits to make the pantaloons blend in with the rest of the outfit.

Photo of Costume With Edging On Skirt

PHOTO CREDIT: Photo by John Rickman, San Jose, California, 2001.

Supplies Required

Rocaille Beads. Size 8 or 10 (this is the size sold in the plastic packages labelled as rocaille beads in most craft stores). Look for these in craft stores such as Michael's, or the craft departments of fabric stores. They're also sold in stores that specialize in beads.
Sequins. My costumes were made using the faceted cup-shaped sequins, 8 mm in diameter. I suppose you could use the flat style or a different size if you wanted to, but I really liked the effect of the cup-style and 8 mm size, so I encourage you to use the same. Look for these in craft stores such as Michael's, or the craft departments of fabric stores.
Thin Needle. It needs to fit through those tiny beads!
Thread. Any thread will do, but for strength you might consider nylon beading thread, called filo.
Beeswax.This is optional. Its purpose is to prevent your thread from tangling and knotting. If you don't sew very much it's a good idea to use this because it'll make your thread easier to manage. It is sold in the "Notions" department of fabric stores--ask a store employee to help you find it.

How to Do It

Cut a length of thread no longer than about 24 inches. Thread the needle. If you choose to use beeswax to prevent tangles, run your thread across the edge of the cake to lightly coat it. Knot the end of your thread.

Starting at one edge of the garment, poke the needle into the wrong side of the fabric and draw it through to the right. Thread the underside of the sequin onto the needle, followed by 4 rocaille beads, followed by the top side of a second sequin.

Poke the needle through to the wrong side of the fabric about 1/2 inch (or 15 mm) away from where it emerged.

Bring the needle back to the right side about 1/4 inch (or 5 mm) away from where it passed through before.

Again, thread a sequin, 4 beads, and another sequin, and send it back to the wrong side.

Continue in this manner until you've covered the entire edge of the garment.

Another Costume With This Trim

The photo to the left shows the second costume I bought in Istanbul which utilizes this trim on the edges.

This too cost me $450 U.S. for the complete set of bra, belt, pair of wristbands, neckpiece, headband, one skirt, and veil. I paid an extra $30 for a second skirt, so in this photo I'm wearing two skirts: one light green, one dark green. The skirts and veil were made of double georgette fabric, and edged with this trim.

Other articles on this web site you may find helpful:

Shira's Costume Gallery, Part 1: The Turkish Collection. Photo gallery showing additional views of both costumes that were featured on this page. These will give you a closer look at the way this trim looks when dancing.

How To Make A Narrow Hem. I used this hem on the slits when I made the red pantaloons. It also works on the curved lower edges of skirts. Use this hem under the Turkish edging to provide a sturdy foundation for it.

Acknowledgements

This article originally appeared on the Suite101 web site, in the Middle Eastern Dance category, on January 15, 2001.