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In this drawing, you are looking at the wrong side of the bias
tape. The right side is the one where the folds point away from
you, and the wrong side is the one where the folds point toward
you. Remember that in the instructions that follow! |
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Place the right side of the bias tape and the right side of
your garment's top edge together. That means, as you look at
it, if you have the bias tape on top and the garment on the bottom,
you'll have the right side of your garment facing toward you,
and the folds of the bias tape will be curling up toward you.
Unfold the fold of the tape closest to the garment's top edge,
so that the edge of the bias tape is even with the edge of the
fabric. This means the fold will be a small distance away from
the edge of the fabric. Pin it all the way around the edge of
the garment. Curve the bias tape as needed along the top edge
as you go. Remember to keep the raw edge of the bias tape even
with the raw edge of the garment. Now, stitch the bias tape into
place, so that your stitches go into the fold. |
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When you are finished, fold the bias tape and garment together
along the stitching line, bringing the bias tape to the wrong
side of the fabric. Pin it so that it lies flat. Then stitch
very close to the outer edge of the bias tape to anchor it in
place.
If you're making pantaloons (or any other garment where you
have only a single top edge piece to finish), leave a gap of
about 1 inch (2.54 cm) or slightly more in this final row of
stitching. This opening will be used to insert the elastic. |
If you are making several pieces, as you might with a skirt
consisting of several panels, repeat this process on each piece.
If you're using grosgrain ribbon to hold up the garment, hem
both ends of it with a tiny hem.
Next, it's time to insert the elastic or grosgrain ribbon.
Place one end of it in either a large safety pin or the gripping
ends of a bodkin--this is what you will grip with your fingers.
Secure the pin/bodkin. Now, insert the pin/bodkin into the opening
of the casing, and thread it through. Push it through with your
fingers all the way to the other end. If you have multiple panels,
thread each through in turn, being careful to keep the right
side of each piece aligned consistent with that of those you've
already threaded.
For Elastic
When done threading the elastic through, securely machine-stitch
the ends of the elastic together. If you needed to leave an opening
for threading the elastic (as with pantaloons), sew it shut. |
For Grosgrain Ribbon
When done threading the grosgrain ribbon through, sew the
hook end of the hook and eye set onto one end of the ribbon.
Try on the garment. You'll probably find that the grosgrain ribbon
is a little too long. You can either cut off the excess and hem
it, or you can just determine where the eye needs to go, and
sew it in place.
I usually recommend keeping the extra length on the ribbon.
That way, if you gain or lose weight, or later sell the garment
to another person, you'll have the flexibility to move the eye. |
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