How To Make A Rectangular Head Scarf
For Your Belly Dancing Costume

by Shira

Photo Showing Shira Wearing One Of These Scarves

Many dancers forget that their heads should be in costume too. They might apply some makeup, but overlook the importance of doing something special with their hair. The end result makes them look unfinished. A pretty scarf, jewelry, or hairpiece adds an extra flair that finishes the transformation from a normal everyday person to a Dancer.

This rectangular head scarf shown in this photograph is one option for completing the look. You can either make it out of the same fabric and trims as your skirt, or you can select an alternate sparkly fabric that coordinates well with other items in your ensemble. In this case, I was wearing two skirts. The overskirt was a circle skirt in the same red and gold fabric as the veil pictured here. The underskirt was made of the same red tissue lamé as this scarf.

For a nice variation, make three of these scarves, each in a different color of tissue lamé, then braid them together. Tie the braid around your head in whatever style you choose, and let the ends dangle free. This looked great for a Christmas show, in which I used red, green, and gold together.

Supplies

Thread

Fabric

Recommended Fabrics

Here are some suggestions for suitable fabric:

Charmeuse (Has a satiny sheen and drapes beautifully)
China Silk (Inexpensive, has a nice sheen)
Tissue Lame (Very sparkly, but a bit stiff)
Foils (Often called liquid gold or liquid silver)
Crepe (Not as shiny as you might wish, but drapes nicely)
Brocade (Heavy, but pretty)

Velvet (Heavy, but pretty)
Velveteen
Chiffon
Georgette (Not as shiny as you might wish, but drapes beautifully)
Lace (Especially if you can find some with sparkle)

How Much Fabric To Buy

If the fabric is narrower than 54 inches wide: Purchase 1/2 yard (18 inches, 46 centimeters) and piece it. Or, purchase 1 1/2 yards (54 inches, 138 centimeters) and use the extra to make another accessory.

If the fabric is 54 inches (138 centimeters) wide: Purchase 1/4 yard (9 inches, 23 centimeters).

Trim

Suitable trims could include:

Single-strand sequin trim (as shown at right)
Soutache braid (sold in packages in the Notions department of fabric stores)
Various sparkly trims sold by the yard

Amount Needed For The Outer Edge: 3 1/2 Yards (321 centimeters) Buy a few extra inches or centimeters than this just to make sure you don't run out!

In addition to the trims by the yard described above, one way to add a little extra sparkle to the ends is to add:

Rayon chainette fringe (buy 1/2 yard, 46 centimeters)

Mylar fringe (buy 1/2 yard, 46 centimeters)

You might be tempted to try using beaded fringe, but I don't recommend it. It is very heavy, and the scarf I used it on didn't hang nicely.

Another way to decorate the ends is to use:

Paillettes: These look like overgrown sequins. Look for the kind with the tiny hole that's just big enough for a needle to pass through. If you can, avoid the ones with a huge hole. You'll need twenty altogether--ten for each end.

Rocaille beads: These are optional. They can be used to attach the paillettes, and give a little extra sparkle. In the instructions below, I describe two methods of attaching paillettes--one that uses rocaille beads and one that does not. Either one is fine. I prefer to use the rocaille beads because I like the way the finished result looks.

Making The Head Scarf

Cutting It Out

If you bought 54-inch fabric, cut a rectangle that is 1 1/2 yards (54 inches, 140 centimeters) long and 6 inches (14 centimeters) wide. Otherwise, cut two rectangles, both 27 1/2 inches (71 centimeters) long and 6 inches (14 centimeters) wide, then sew together along one of the short ends. Finish off that seam to make it as invisible as possible.

Finishing It

If necessary, turn under 1/4-inch (6 millimeters) hem on all edges. Click here for instructions on how to make an easy narrow hem. Some dancers like to turn this hem toward the right side, instead of the wrong side, then cover it up with the trim. This prevents you from having visible hem on the wrong side. I don't do that myself, but you might like to.

Now you're ready to decorate it. This is the fun part!

Extra Decoration On The Ends

If you purchased fringe for the ends, you should add them now, before adding your other trims. If you purchased pailettes to finish off the ends, you should add them after adding the trim by the yard.

If using rayon chainette fringe or mylar fringe, stitch the band that the fringe is attached to onto the short ends of the scarf. Be sure to turn under the raw edges on each end of the band, and stitch back and forth several times across it to make sure it will never have an opportunity to begin unraveling. Then cover the band with rows of the trim by the yard that you'll be using to frame the entire scarf.

Trim By The Yard

If you're using single-strand sequin trim, soutache braid, or any other trim by the yard, sew a row of it around the outer edge of all four sides of your scarf.

If your trim is narrow and lightweight, you can sew a second row inside the first row, using a contrasting color. Alternatively, instead of sewing the second color all the way around all four sides, you might sew it on the short ends only, then add another row that's either repeating the first color or introducing a third row.

Paillette Trim

This is a beautiful way to finish off the short ends of the scarf. In the photos on this page, I am wearing one of these scarves that was finished off with paillettes that were attached using rocaille beads as described below.

If you like, you can also use the instructions below to sew about 6 or 8 paillettes to one edge of the very center of the scarf. If you plan to wear your scarf so that the center goes across your forehead, then those paillettes will hang down on your forehead and sparkle a little.

To use rocaille beads to attach the paillettes:

Knot your thread and draw through the edge of the fabric to the right side at one end of the scarf. Thread two rocaille beads onto the needle. Then thread a paillette onto the needle. Draw the beads up close to the fabric. Then run the needle back through the beads, going first through the bead closer to the paillette, then through the bead closer to the fabric. Run the needle through the fabric to the wrong side, and then take a tiny stitch to anchor it in place. Repeat this process until you have about 10 paillettes evenly spaced across the end of the scarf. Take a couple of extra tiny stitches on the end, and anchor the thread with a knot. Repeat on the other end of the scarf.

Shira With Alice In A Photo That Shows A Close-Up Of The Rectangular Scarf

In this photo, Shira is wearing a scarf with the trim made from paillettes and rocaille beads.

To attach the paillettes without rocaille beads:

Knot your thread and draw through the edge of the fabric to the right side at one end of the scarf. String a paillette on the needle and pull it through. Take a stitch through the fabric about 1/2 inch (or 1 centimeter) away from the first one and string another paillette. Continue across. Keep the thread somewhat loose between stitches so that the paillettes have some freedom to dangle.

Ways To Wear It

There are several different ways to wear this versatile scarf. You'll probably also come up with some great ideas of your own on how to wear this scarf. As always, you should practice dancing at home while wearing this scarf before you actually perform in it, to get comfortable with how it moves with you and discover whether you need to make any adjustments. Here are some initial suggestions on how to wear it, just to get you started.

Around Your Forehead

If you have a high forehead, you might enjoy wearing your scarf this way.

This is my favorite way to wear the scarf because it serves the same function as a sweatband, only is much prettier. It also helps keep your hair out of your face while you dance. This is the style pictured at the top of this page. Take the center of the scarf into both hands, and gather it to about half the width. Place the gathered portion across the upper part of your forehead, so the scarf is right against your hairline.

Now pull the scarf around each side and tie it in a square knot securely in the back, directly behind your head, so that it's level all the way around. You'll end up with the scarf on top of your hair.

Next, run either your finger or a tail comb across the upper edge of the scarf to pull the hair out from under it. Lay that hair over the scarf so that the hair covers it all the way around, except for the center front at the forehead. Let the tails of the scarf hang down in back so they can be seen from under the hair.

If you have bangs, pull them out from under the scarf if necessary. Style them as you see fit.

For a variation on this look, place the knot on one side of your head, above the ear, instead of in center back. This will have the tails of the scarf hanging down to your shoulder on one side.

Around A Pony Tail

The "I Dream Of Jeannie" look is comfortable because it keeps your hair out of your face and lets the back of your neck stay cool while you dance.

Draw your hair into a pony tail and secure it with a rubber band or other fastener. Place the center of the scarf underneath the pony tail and bring the scarf up on either side of it. Tie a secure knot around it. If you like, pull a few tendrils loose in front of your ear on each side and curl them with a curling iron. Then style the scarf one of these ways:

Let the ends dangle.
Wrap the scarf around the pony tail multiple times to make the knot area fuller and the loose ends shorter. Tie a second square knot and fluff the ends out to each side like butterfly wings.
Tie a bow.

As A Headband

This helps keep your hair out of your face while you're dancing. Depending on the texture of the fabric you choose, wearing a scarf in this way may make it easier to keep a sword balanced on your head.

Imagine a line going from one ear to the other. Place the center of the scarf on top of your head so that it is just slightly forward of that imaginary line. Draw it down each side of your head just behind the ears. Pull the ends back to the nape of your neck and tie a square knot so that it fits snugly. If you have bangs, style them as you see fit.

PHOTO CREDIT: Photo by William M. Smith.

Shira Wearing Scarf As Headband

With A Hairpiece

If you like to wear a hairpiece, tie this scarf wherever appropriate to cover the junction where your hairpiece meets your head.

At Your Hips

Make a second scarf to match the first one in a color that contrasts with or complements your skirt. Use the center of each scarf to make a pouf, and tuck the pouf of each scarf into the hipband, one on each side.

PHOTO CREDIT: Except where noted otherwise, the photographs of Shira on this page were taken by John Rickman Photography of San Jose, California.

How To Make A Rectangular Head Scarf For Your Belly Dancing Costume