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This article will introduce you to some basic elements used in belly dance costuming. You can make your own items, or purchase them from various vendors. If you are inclined to make your own costumes, see Belly Dance Costume Patterns elsewhere on this web site for information about three pattern companies who make patterns suitable for belly dancing costumes. Beginning students often aren't ready to commit a large amount of money to a fully beaded, sequinned outfit. This basic beginner's costume is suitable for wearing to class, "getting in the mood" to practice at home, or performing in student recitals, community events, and other amateur performances, but doesn't require huge amounts of fabric, time, or cash. |
You can alternatively make it out of shiny fabric such as charmeuse, crepe-backed satin, sequin-covered fabric, laminates, or China silk for a more glittery style. These fabrics drape beautifully and make wonderful pantaloons. Resist the temptation to use glitter organza, tissue lamé, bridal satin, or baroque satin. These fabrics may shine beautifully, but they are so stiff that pantaloons made from them balloon out to the sides like a clown suit. If you plan to wear the outfit frequently, such as to class once a week, choose a washable fabric and trims that you can launder at home. |
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Some kind of midriff-baring blouse made out of fabric that matches your pantaloons can make a pretty, low-cost top. One example is shown in the drawing and photo above, but there are many other possibilities. Some dancers like to wear a choli, which is the midriff blouse that women in India wear under their saris. Select a design like this one that covers the bustline and upper back, so you can wear normal lingerie under it. It's a good idea to line your blouse with cotton in a color that matches the main fabric. Cotton next to your skin allows it to breathe, and helps prevent perspiration from soiling the main fabric of the blouse. If you use fabric or trims for your blouse that can't be laundered at home, then put dress shields in the armpits of the blouse to protect it from perspiration. Be sure to make your blouse long enough to allow you to raise your arms above your head without having the bottom edge of the blouse expose the lower edge of your breasts.
You might also look in mainstream pattern catalogs at your local sewing store for blouse patterns that might be suitable to wear as midriff blouses. Look for peasant blouses, halter tops, and blouses that button down the front and tie under the bust. Opt for making either short-sleeved or sleeveless tops, because long-sleeved blouses are much too hot to dance comfortably. Avoid the section of the pattern catalog for Halloween costumes--the patterns in that category are usually "one size fits all", and therefore fit no one. They also usually appear in styles that are easy to sew, but are somewhat shapeless, and not always flattering to most figures. Some have necklines and armholes that gap away from the body and expose what lies beneath them when you try to move in them, and for that reason are not suitable for dancing. |
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This simple hip belt is an inexpensive way to get the sensation of movement at your hip line without the expense of beaded fringe. It actually consists of two parts: a 4-inch (10 centimeters) wide band of stretch sequin trim, and a row of either 9-inch (23 centimaters) long chainette or mylar fringe attached to an elastic band worn underneath it. If you use chainette fringe, you can tie some false coins periodically around the fringe to add some sparkle and make a jingling sound when you shimmy. For a little added interest, sew a sequin appliqué in a contrasting color to the center front of the belt. |
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Made out of opaque fabric, pantaloons can stand by themselves as a costume component, as shown above. Their top edge should fall well below the navel, just above the fullness of your hip line. In the back the top edge of the pantaloons should come about 1/2 inch (1 centimeter) or 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) above the cleavage between your buttocks, and in the front it should be about the height of your pelvic bone. |  |
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There are several patterns for pantaloons here on this web site:
Several companies make patterns that are suitable for pantaloons, including Atira's Fashions, Sula, and Folkwear. These three pictures are all from the pattern envelopes for three different pantaloons patterns. In order from left to right are "Hathaya's Harem Pants" by Atira's Fashions, "Sarouelles" by Folkwear, and "One-Shoulder Blouse & Pantaloons" by Sula. If you are making a historical costume for wearing in a Renaissance Faire performance or at an SCA event, the Folkwear pattern is probably a more appropriate choice because it uses historical construction methods such as gussets instead of curved cutting lines. If you're comfortable with altering patterns, you can even take a standard trousers pattern from a traditional pattern company and modify it for pantaloons. |
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Vary your pantaloons design by putting slits in the outside of the legs (where the side seam would go), and outline those slits with sequins, paillettes, or glittery trim sold by the yard. Or, put the slit in the center front of the pant legs, so that it runs from the middle of your thigh to the middle of your shin. Or, instead of using elastic at the bottom edge of the pant leg, gather it to a cuff on the with a self-fabric tie that ties around your ankle. My favorite fabrics for pantaloons meant to be worn without a covering skirt are charmeuse and China silk. Both have a lovely sheen, drape beautifully, and feel nice next to the skin. Although crepe-backed satin also has a nice sheen, I personally avoid it because it is very heavy (which means the elastic at the top edge has trouble holding it up) and it is very hot. If you plan to wear your pantaloons under a skirt, then you can opt for a sheer fabric if you like. Good choices could be chiffon, nylon tricot, or georgette. I don't recommend glitter organza because it is very stiff and your pantaloons won't drape nicely. Cotton gauze could be nice for a folkloric costume. |
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Please patronize your local belly dance vendors and fabric stores, if they carry suitable costume items or the supplies to make your own costumes. But, if you don't have a good local source, one excellent vendor for supplies to make your own costumes is Universal Imports. This company is experienced with shipping materials world-wide. You can order costume items ready made, or purchase a wide variety of suitable fabrics, chainette fringe, coins, sequin trim, sequin appliques, beaded fringe, paillettes, patterns by Atira's Fashions, and other supplies for making your own. Catalogs and fabric swatches are available. Universal Imports Phone: (+1) (408) 257-9655 Please be sure to tell them you found out about them via Shira's web site! You can order Sula's patterns from Belly Dance! To contact them: Belly Dance! Phone: (+1) (925) 937-7852 |
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