Ask The Costume Goddess:

Tight Sleeves

By Dina

Dear Costume Goddess,

I've been trying to figure out how to make a short fitted top out of a non-stretch material. I'm not sure how to sew the sleeves so that it doesn't pull up the shirt when you raise your arms. I've seen a pattern by Atira's fashions (the style was choli, I think) but I don't have enough time to order the pattern. I f you could send me a few pointers that would be great!

--Jeannette

Dear Jeannette,

A dancer needs freedom of movement to lift her arms overhead without worrying that her short costume top will slide up to reveal her bra (if she's wearing a bra!) One way to get around this problem would be to make sleeves that are loose enough to leave your arms free, such as a circular or dolman sleeve, but most often the choli style of top has a fitted sleeve.

If the material is not stretchy, and restricts your arm movement, here is the easiest way I know to solve that problem: sew the sleeve to the bodice only at the top of shoulder, two to three inches on either side of shoulder seam. Leave the rest of the sleeve edge free, as illustrated, but of course finish it off nicely with a narrow hem, binding or trim. As always, try on to see how the sleeve fits. You may want to slim down the sleeve or trim away a slice of the curved sleeve cap, if it looks better.

Now the opening widens to allow complete freedom of movement, and an added benefit is the extra ventilation. No (ahem) sweaty armpits. Not that any of us actually sweat.
Diagram Illustrating Sleeve Construction

--The Costume Goddess

Other articles on this web site that you may find helpful include:

Belly Dance Costume Patterns. Identifies sources of belly dance costume patterns, including some who offer patterns for baladi dresses.

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For more great advice from the Costume Goddess, access to a photo gallery featuring her wearing some of her own costumes, and to learn about her background, please visit the main menu for Ask The Costume Goddess.

Ask The Costume Goddess:

Tight Sleeves

By Dina

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