Dear Costume Goddess,

In your Fitting Belts article you describe pinning the darted pattern on top of a fresh piece of paper and cutting a flat pattern. I'm confused. If you add darts to material (paper or fabric) you create a three dimensional effect (at least in my experience). How do you effectively transfer the 3-D pattern to 2-D? Are you removing the darts from the initial pattern and then transferring the darts to the new pattern? I like your method up to the point of transferring the pattern - please help!

--In a Belt Pattern Quandary

Dear Quandary,

Sorry I didn't make myself clear. You are correct--a dart is a method of transforming a flat, 2-dimensional strip of cloth to a garment that will fit over a rounded, 3-dimensional body.

Another way of doing the same thing is to turn a flat strip of cloth into a CURVED strip of cloth, that is, one that is larger around the bottom edge, just like a woman's hips. (This curve is what saves us from the danger that some men must live with--the possibility of their pants falling down.) That's why I place the darted pattern onto a fresh piece of paper and trace the curve (folding in half to make sure it's symmetrical!) It saves me the trouble, and the extra bulk, of folding and stitching darts into my belt form. The curve of the belt form will vary depending on the curve of your hip, as I've illustrated. A small hip and flat rear will require only a slight curve, An average hip and medium-sized rear will have a more pronounced curve in the belt form. If your hip or rear is extremely rounded, you may have to include the darts after all, because what you need is a large curve at the top edge of the belt, and less towards the bottom edge. You simply must try on and adjust your belt pattern until it's perfectly fitting, and for this a friend is helpful. Once your have your individual belt pattern perfected, you may make paper duplicates and experiment with shapes and angles: points, curves, scallops, notches, center medallions, etc. I'm absolutely convinced that any sort of shaping on the edges of a belt makes it a far more flattering costume piece than a plain old straight belt. This subject deserves a column by itself.

Have I explained the baffling belt mystery?

--The Costume Goddess

Other articles on this web site that you may find helpful include:

Ask The Costume Goddess: Altering A Purchased Belt. Describes how to make alterations to a finished belt to make it fit better.

Ask The Costume Goddess: Fitting Belts. Describes how to make a belt fit properly when you are making it.

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