Ask The Costume Goddess:

Harem Pants

By Dina

Dear Costume Goddess,

I hope I didn't miss it, but I've been poring over this fantastic site... Is there a relatively easy way to make the pantaloons?

--Marmara

Dear Marmara,

Harem pants are worn under a skirt, or worn alone. Typically they are very full, measuring six to twelve inches or more larger than measurement of hip and thigh. Each half is a single piece with no side seam.The pants keep the legs (and underwear!) covered during floorwork, spins, and outdoor breezes, as well as for those who prefer to cover legs for whatever reason. Even sheer pants appear more modest than bare legs.

Cheap and Easy Tip: Try using a pair of pull-on pants several sizes too large for you, if you can find some in a suitable fabric (see below-- not doubleknit!), perhaps in a secondhand store. After adjusting the leg length and cutting the waist lower, sew casings at hip and ankle and thread elastic through as described below. Then adjust elastic until you get a satisfactory fit. Trim if desired.

For those with more time, the classic harem pants are easy to sew because once your pattern is perfected, only two seams and two casings are required. I suggest starting with a generously sized pattern piece--the pants can always be taken in if you wish. Or make a mock-up of the pants in cheap muslin, perfect the fit, then use this muslin as a pattern for your costume fabric.

Often the front and back of the pants are exactly the same. My version has a slightly smaller front that dips an inch lower than the back, to avoid bunchy material in front. But if you want to skip that step, fold my pattern in half vertically to make a pattern piece that is exactly the same front and back.

Variations: The side may be slit to leave an opening, which may then be outlined with decorative trim, and the two halves connected with beaded strands, metallic ribbons or other decoration.

Panels or scarves can be added front and back for vertical interest, and sewn directly on the pants, or attached to a separate elastic band, which is then covered with a hip scarf. If you are wearing a cabaret belt, the scarves may be sewn to that (see red costume in photo gallery).

The pants may be cut slimmer and tapered with darts as illustrated for an "Indian" look. Slimmer rather than fuller pants flatter the more petite figure. Beware a balloony look! If short-legged (like me!) you may appear to be standing in a hole. A taller or long-legged dancer can wear the fuller pants gracefully.

Fabric Suggestions

For the classic full harem pants:

Chiffon
Georgette
Metallic sheers
Metallic knits
Lace
Cut velvet on chiffon
Lingerie satin
Blouse-weight silk

For a folkloric look:

Sheer to medium-weight soft cottons

Avoid stiff fabrics such as:

Bridal satins
Thick velvets
Heavy brocades

(But these stiff fabrics may be worn as panels.)

The slim style pants can use a slightly more firm fabric, since they don’t need to drape.

Yardage

Depending on size and height, 1-1¼ yards of 60” wide fabric; 2-2½ yards of 52” or 45” wide fabric. A sheer or very light fabric will need more fullness, so buy extra yardage.

Materials

Measuring tape
Pins
Pattern paper
All-purpose thread

Dressmaking shears
½ inch elastic for ankles
One inch elastic for hip.

Instructions

Measurements

Tie a piece of ½” elastic around abdomen snugly. Move this elastic higher or lower to decide where on your hip you would like to wear your belt, from navel down to barely legal. Measure this line, using the measuring tape. This is your belt line. Now measure from this line to the floor. This is your pants length, or skirt length, for costume purposes (leaving an inch or so for hem). Now measure the largest part of your hip, probably several inches lower. This is your hip measurement. Measure the largest part of your thigh for thigh measurement. Sit on a chair and measure from the beltline to chair. Add an inch, or two inches for very roomy pants. This is your crotch depth.

Draft Pattern

Start with a rectangle of paper the measurement of your pants length, plus 2” for casing and blousing at ankle and 11/2” for casing at hip. For classic harem pants, add six to twelve inches to hip and thigh measurements for the width---depending on how loose you want pants. For slim harem pants, add 4-5” to hip and thigh measurement. Remember that the pattern is one-half of belt line at top, but a full leg.

Use diagram to adjust your rectangle and draw pattern. Note that the belt line is curved one inch lower at front. This is optional. Remember when measuring that an inch and a half is allowed at the top for one-inch elastic, ¾ inch at bottom of leg for ankle elastic, and ½” for seam allowances.
Harem Pants Pattern

Construction

When pattern is complete, determine how much fabric you’ll need, using the diagram.

Pin pattern to fabric and cut out.

Sew center seams, then inseams.

Finish edges of casings nicely with ¼” turn under, overlock, or zigzag, then turn under 1 ¼” at top and ¾” at ankles, and topstitch. Leave small opening for elastic.

Using a safety pin, thread elastic through casings, to body measurements, pin the elastic shut, then try on the pants. Pull elastic to adjust the size of the openings. Elastic should be snug but not uncomfortably tight. Pants should blouse slightly at ankle, but not enough to touch floor. If pants seem too long or beltline seems too high, pick out the stitching and trim edge, then repeat.

When fit is correct, sew ends of elastic and sew shut opening in casing.

Add a line of trim up the side, if desired.

The "Indian" style pants are made the same except that thay are cut slimmer, and tapered with darts from the knee down to make an ankle opening just big enough to fit your foot through.

A point at foot front is optional.
Pattern For Slim Harem Pants

For open side: Allow an extra inch of width. Cut pattern along side line. Turn under this edge and finish nicely, then cover this edge with trim or decoration. Sew the side front and back together at top inch or two and bottom inch or two. Connect the remainder of slit every few inches as desired, a half-inch to two inches apart, with ribbon, trim, or strands of beads. Experiment until you achieve a pleasing look.

--The Costume Goddess

Other articles on this web site that you may find helpful include:

Belly Dance Costume Patterns. For the dancer who would prefer to purchase a ready-made pattern instead of drafting her own.
Pants In The Sixteenth Century. Information about the use of pants in historical clothing ensembles.

How To Make A Narrow Hem. If you choose to put side slits in your harem pants, these instructions offer an easy-to-make hem for finishing the edges.
How To Make A Hip Elastic Cases With Wide Bias Tape. A suggestion for an easy way to finish the top edge of the pants.

About The Costume Goddess

For more great advice from the Costume Goddess, information about her belly dance costuming book, access to a photo gallery featuring her wearing some of her own costumes, and to learn about her background, please visit the main menu for Ask The Costume Goddess.