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Dear Beginner,
Thanks for your shower of compliments. I could tell you I'm
blushing, but I'm not all that modest! I'm smiling!
The subject of fabrics is crucial. What a disappointment to
finish a project and realize you've made a bad choice of fabric,
so it looks second-rate.
Fibers are either woven or knitted together to make fabric.
Keep in mind that knits are better for beginners to work with,
because they don't ravel much on the cut edges and have some
degree of stretch, making them easier to handle and fit around
curves.
Buy the best fabric that you can afford. A poor quality fabric
will make your costume appear amateurish, no matter how you fashion
it.
Knits
Stretch velvet and velour have a nap (fuzzy texture). They're
good for skirts, belt and bra; may be too warm for harem pants
and sleeves. The matte surface makes an elegant background for
glittery costume parts. Remember that the pattern pieces must
be cut in the same direction, especially panne´ velvet,
which is pressed flat and appears shiny or not depending on the
angle of light.
Metallic knit has shiny threads running through the fabric.
Make sure these threads aren't too easily snagged. If the fabric
is scratchy, the costume piece may need a lining between fabric
and skin.
Glitter dot fabric has reflective dots fused to the fabric.
Use a minimum of seams because the gluey residue causes the needle
to stick and need frequent cleaning or changing. It makes a dramatic
caftan cover-up.
Liquid lamé has a very slick, shiny surface and it
too is difficult to sew, so use the simplest possible shapes.
Stretch lace is excellent for snug pieces such as fitted sleeves
or dress, and the open texture allows some ventilation and a
glimpse of skin. Expensive sequined lace is glamorous.
Mesh and net are very stretchy and semi-sheer. They're used
for fitted sleeves, cutouts, and tummy covers; may be flesh-colored
or not, plain or glittered. Power net is a less sheer, heavier
weight net that can support the weight of jewels and beaded fringe.
Sheer knit may be striped, glittered, or otherwise decorative.
It can be lined or not for use as skirts, pants, and dresses.
May snag easily: test first!
Wovens
Silk is available in a range of weights (momme or mm). Chiffon
(or gauze) (4mm) is a very sheer fabric often used for the veil
and circle skirt. Because it's so fine, the fabric can be gathered
into a small fraction of its original width, creating voluminous
folds. Featherweight silk (5mm) is ideal for a veil; because
of its lightness and dense weave, it floats and billows like
no other fabric. Usually this is white and must be dyed to match
costume; it's worth it. Lingerie- or blouse-weight silk (7-8mm),
sometimes called charmeuse, has fluidity and sheen, is suitable
for a skirt, harem pant, or lining, but it stains and creases
easily, and must be dry-cleaned.
Synthetics, such as polyester, are often substituted for silk
when cost and easy care are considerations. These include chiffon,
georgette (a heavier gauze), and soft lingerie satins. Avoid
stiff, heavy satins.
Sequined chiffon is suitable for unstructured skirts and dresses.
The sequins dull the needle quickly, so it will need frequent
changing.
Metallics are flashy, but again, test for snagging and scratching.
The best quality are brocades; the least expensive, gaudy tissue
lamé, is popular with beginners, but it's stiff and cheap
looking.
Lace, plain or glittered, does not ravel, and makes nice sleeves
and ruffles, but sharp ornaments such as rhinestones with prongs
can get caught on it.
Velvet (see under knit) may be solid or woven in patterns
on a chiffon background, which is elegant and not as hot to dance
in.
Cotton and linen, and easy-care synthetic blends, are available
in a wide variety of patterns, stripes, and florals, from sheer
batiste to heavy textures, and these are suitable for less formal
ethnic and folk costumes: vests, gypsy skirts, peasant blouses
and Turkish pants.
Additional Suggestions
I'll add a few more suggestions. When you're shopping, unroll
a few yards from the bolt and gather the fabric over your body
to see how it drapes. Crush it in your fist to see if it creases
easily. Hold it up to your face in the mirror to make sure the
color is flattering. If you have any doubts, buy a small sample
of the fabric and experiment with it. Stitch one layer, stitch
seven layers. Topstitch it, narrow-hem it, interface it, wash
it, dye it, stretch it. Sew jewels and trim on it, glue jewels
and trim on it. Attempt to snag or stain or burn it with the
iron. Compare the color and texture with pieces you already own.
If you're satisfied, make the investment.
--The Costume Goddess |
