Ask The Costume Goddess:

Making An 8-Point Skirt

By Dina

Dear Costume Goddess,

I have been taking belly dance lessons for a year and a half now and would like to make a few costume pieces for myself. In a catalog I saw a lovely eight point skirt made from chiffon. I really liked it but couldn't afford to buy it. Would you have an idea on how to make one?

---Eight Point Question

Dear Question,

Yes, I have several ideas how to make one, depending on your sewing skills and time available.

A pointed-hem skirt is flattering to all, but especially for short-legged dancers because the points break up that horizontal hemline.

One easy way to get that effect is to hem two squares of chiffon, each having of course four points (called a "handkerchief" hem) and layer them as illustrated for an eight-pointed look. The two layers could be the same color or harmonizing colors, such as blue and purple. Experiment with swatches before you decide. The top layer could also be trimmed shorter than the under layer for a tiered look. Each point could be decorated with paillettes, sequins, trim, etc.

For a woman of average size, a yard and a half squares, or the full width of the 45" fabric should be about right--but cut a pattern of cheap muslin first. Trim the points if necessary, to an inch or two from the floor. The size of the circular opening should be just big enough to pull over your hips, and can then be tightened with elastic. If I remember my basic geometry, the circumference of a circle is about 3.14 times the diameter. Thus a 12-inch diameter circle would measure about 37 3/4 inches around, a 13-inch diameter circle would measure 40 3/4 inches around, a 14-inch diameter circle would measure about 44 inches around, and so forth.

Two Handkerchief Skirts

Eight-Gored Skirt Variation
Another way to make an eight pointed skirt would use a classic full-length eight-gored flared skirt pattern. You may have to use a size or two bigger to allow for a loose fit with elastic, or use the zipper closure if you prefer a close fit. Cut the waist lower to sit on your hipline, and cut each panel into a pointed shape as illustrated, and decorate. Again, I suggest you first make a cheap prototype out of muslin or another inexpensive fabric.

If you underline each panel with lining, the skirt will be opaque. If you don't, it will be sheer, and you can wear harem pants underneath. But you don't want an ugly raw seam edge showing through, so finish each seam nicely.

By the way, georgette is a nice alternative to chiffon for a skirt. It has the same texture but is less sheer, like a double layer of chiffon, and a bit easier for a non-expert to handle.

My third skirt illustrated is more of a challenge and my own design. Each sheer panel is separately finished off with a tiny narrow hem, and they are assembled onto a band in a pleasing fashion. The panels overlap, with the shorter ones on top. Each is finished with a paillette at the tip. Use eight or ten wide panels, or as many as twenty or thirty narrow ones can look lovely.

This is best worn with pants underneath, because the feathery panels fly all around as you dance. I used real silk gauze, but a sheer, non-raveling knit fabric would be easier to finish and would look as pretty on stage.

Multipoint Skirt Variation

I don't know about you, but after all that work I'm ready to relax with a diet root beer and get ready to graciously accept my compliments!

--The Costume Goddess

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